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In our long career growing and picking fruit, we’ve frequently come across broken branches in our fruit trees. It’s probably true to say that they are a common sight in our orchards and garden!

The broken branch in the Granny Smith apple tree (above) is a case in point. Broken branches can happen for lots of different reasons and are always distressing.

It’s hardest to see when the branch has broken with fruit on it, because then you have to deal with a broken branch AND the loss of part of your precious crop.

Here’s another one in an apricot tree…

A small branch bearing lots of small green apricots has snapped from the main branch due to the weight of the fruit.
Broken branches in an apricot tree due to leaving too much fruit on the branch

Why do fruit tree branches break?

Excess weight of fruit is one of the main causes of broken branches. In an ideal world, this should never happen!

Managing the fruit load on your fruit trees (mainly by fruit thinning) should only ever leave as much fruit as the branch can safely hold without breaking.

Clearly, how much fruit is allowed to grow on any particular branch is not something you can just leave up to the tree. Fruit trees will regularly set more fruit than their branches can carry.

This is even more true if they’ve been allowed to fall into a “biennial bearing” pattern, where they have a heavy crop one year followed by a very light crop the year after.

Branches can break for other reasons of course. Our farm borders a Regional Park with a large kangaroo population, so one of the common causes at our place is clumsy kangaroos.

A branch close to the base of a fruit tree has snapped, but is still attached to the tree.
A broken limb on a fruit tree caused by a passing kangaroo

Misadventure with equipment, other animals, storms, or disease can also cause breaks.

Can broken branches be repaired?

Once the damage is done, the next question is “Can it be repaired?” We’re often asked whether broken branches should just be removed completely.

Well, it depends.

If the break has gone all or most of the way through the wood (like the apricot branch at the top) then the answer is yes.

Similarly, if the break has been caused by disease and the branch no longer has any healthy wood inside, then the best thing to do is make a neat pruning cut to remove the broken branch. Remember, the first rule of pruning is “remove all dead and diseased wood”.

However, if there’s still enough healthy and green wood on both sides of the split that can be brought back together, it’s worth trying a repair. Old and large splits might need different treatment.

How to repair a broken branch

  • Remove any fruit that’s on the branch.
  • Bring the two pieces back together, and make sure you can get a really good union between the two sides.
  • Tie or tape the pieces very firmly together.
A split branch on a fruit tree bound with grafting tape to hold the split together while it heals.
A split branch on a fruit tree bound with grafting tape

It doesn’t really matter what you use to tie the two sides together. In the example above the split was on a fairly small branch. Some budding tape was handy in the pocket, so that’s what was used!

For a bigger split, for example in the trunk of a tree, you’ll need a more heavy-duty solution. Cable ties are great for this purpose because you can pull the two sides very tightly together.

You may also need to support the break with some rope or hayband (baling twine) while it repairs itself.

Can you glue branches back together?

This is done sometimes in really specialised cases like repairing snapped bonsai trees, for example. We’ve never done it on any of our fruit trees, for a couple of reasons.

For one thing, it’s fiddly! More importantly though, glue won’t be robust enough for most fruit trees. Gardens and orchards are pretty knock-about places!

Trees have to be able to withstand high winds, people, dogs, and possibly big animals like kangaroos going past.

The more support you provide when you repair a broken branch, the higher your chances of success.

Repair aftercare

Leave the bindings in place to heal for at least a few months. Check back next spring to see whether the repair worked. If not, then it probably makes sense to remove the branch.

If your repair was successful, be careful to thin the fruit on that limb extra hard next spring. It’s important not to put too much load onto a new repair.

Remove whatever you used to bind the break before it gets too tight. Keep an eye on the limb and supply extra support if necessary next season to make sure it doesn’t break again.

Prevention is better than cure

Even though summer is usually when the damage shows up, spring is the time to prevent it by thinning.

However, taking enough fruit off the branches to prevent these breaks in the first place can be very difficult. It feels awfully destructive to throw all that fruit on the ground. But it really is one of the best ways to protect the structure of your tree.

A little pro tip, while you’re thinning, is to look at the fruit on the tree, and avert your eyes from the fruit on the ground (this really does help you feel better about the job).

Before you start thinning, figure out how much fruit you need to remove. The amount you remove will vary depending on tree size, crop load, etc.

Our final pro tip? Do your fruit thinning, and then go back a couple of weeks later and just check how the tree looks. Chances are, you’ll need to do it again!

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